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Troubleshooting

Start with the status light — it usually says what's wrong.

Recording to a card

The light blinks orange and never turns green

The camera can't read the memory card. Power off, remove and reinsert the card, and power on again. If it continues (on Mono it turns to a slow red blink after a minute), try another card and make sure it is formatted exFAT — see Memory cards.

The light blinks red slowly

The memory card is missing, not detected or was removed. Insert the card (or reseat it) and power-cycle the camera.

The light stays white for a long time after power-on

The camera is checking and repairing recordings from an earlier session — for example after power was pulled mid-take. This can take a while on a large card. Don't power off; it turns green when done.

I pressed the button but it didn't start recording
  • Wait for green — the button is ignored while the light is white.
  • A short red light means recording couldn't start: check the card has free space, then try again.
  • After a card-full stop on Mono, replace the card and reconnect power before recording again.
The recording stopped by itself
  • Fast red blink: the card is full — see Memory cards.
  • Mono, after 8 hours: takes are saved automatically at 8 hours; tap to record again.
  • Mono, light stayed blue with no new file for a few minutes: a cooling pause; recording resumes by itself as the next part.
  • Stereo, solid red then off: the camera overheated and switched off — see Heat.
  • Power cut out: see power below.
The camera switches off or restarts during recording

Most often the power bank switches off at the camera's low power draw, or the cable is worn. Try a bank known to work and a good USB-C cable, and don't press the power bank's button during a recording. Takes interrupted by power loss are repaired automatically the next time the camera starts.

USB and the Trinet app

The app doesn't see the camera
  • Remove the memory card (or use a mode=uvc mode file) and reconnect — the light should be white.
  • Allow access when Android asks; if you declined, unplug and reconnect the camera.
  • Your phone needs USB-C host (OTG) support. Try another cable, and avoid USB hubs.
  • Close other apps that might be using the camera.
The preview stutters, freezes or disconnects

Use a short, good-quality USB-C cable directly into the phone, and keep the app and camera firmware up to date. The stream-health readout shows the measured frame rate.

A setting is greyed out with Update the camera firmware

That feature needs newer camera firmware — update the firmware.

The firmware update doesn't start or fails

Remove the memory card, reconnect, wait for the app to show the camera as connected, and try again; keep the camera plugged in while the light is pink. Stereo cameras on firmware older than 0.5.5 need a one-time update from us — contact us.

Wrist Kit

Only one camera starts recording

Check each camera has its radio-beacon adapter attached and is green, then pair the kit again.

A camera doesn't appear in Wireless status

Wireless status needs camera firmware 0.5.9 or newer and the broadcast switched on (it's on by default). Update the camera, and make sure Bluetooth is on for the phone.

Files and playback

A recording plays as only one second, or an uploader rejects it

Run the toolkit's repair script — it fixes the file index without re-encoding.

I can't open the .imu or .vts files

They are binary data files. Use the Python toolkit or the SDK, or see File formats.

H.265 recordings won't play

Some players and tools don't support H.265. Switch card recordings back to H.264 in Camera settings, or use a player such as VLC.

Motion data seems to lag the video by tens of milliseconds

You are probably aligning with the video's playback timestamps or the computer's clock. Use the recorded frame timestamps — see Timing and sync.

Still stuck?

Contact us with your camera model, firmware version and what the light shows.